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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. But, tucked prominently among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has left the family totally astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” states the proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble shop earning such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.